Christian Dior. Spring-Summer 2023 Couture Collection during Haute Couture Week.
The craft of thought
For Maria Grazia Chiuri, each haute couture dfil is an opportunity to explore the complex thought processes connected
to a garment constructed for a body. The couture garment is a body-garment. A body-home. A body-manifesto.
This Dior spring-summer 2023 collection is guided by Josphine Baker, the African-American singer and dancer who left
the United States in the mid 1920s for the cosmopolitan city of Paris, which was a dream destination for artists, writers
and fashion designers. A glamorous icon, she embodies the modernity of those years, the transgression of stereotypes
and prejudices, the mixing of cultures and shared experiences that notably animated the vibrant world of cabaret. Having
acquired French citizenship, she was acclaimed by post-war Europe and performed at the Strand Theatre and Carnegie
Hall, New York, dressed in French fashion, such as the Dior creations that crowned her charisma and success.
The photographs of Josphine Baker, whose energy is emphasized by their black and white tonality, compose a form of sartorial
biography (capturing her as a dancer, entertainer, member of the French Resistance, civil rights activist for the African-Americans,
humanist and universal benefactress), the exemplary story of a pioneer, a role-model. The cozy, intimate dressing room that
precedes her entrance on stage is evoked by a series of coats, reminiscent of the bathrobe, which conceals and protects.
Made of light velvet, crumpled and dynamic, or quilted, they open onto pieces of light satin underwear that are transformed
into protagonists themselves, their powdered hues and black providing a contemporary interpretation of 1950s classics.
The clothes glide over the body and caress it. In silk, in velvet, often with a creased effect, a syncopated rhythm, breathing
vitality into the fabric. The embroidery is delicate. Tiny silver studs and sequins occupy the space and absorb the runway
lights to reflect them onto the audience. Fringes in shades of silver and gold accompany and magnity the choreography of
the movements sketched by the body. The suits and coats pay tribute to the masculine fabrics dear to Monsieur Dior. The
length, always above the ankle, reveals shoes with heels and imposing soles.
The show's staging by African-American artist Mickalene Thomas, celebrates black and mixed-race women, like Josphine
Baker, who evolved into powerful figureheads by breaking racial barriers and going against the grain. She unveils the deep
meaning of this collection and shakes up the vision of haute couture, the essence of fashion that can become a radical
gesture of awareness of its own value and strength.
Text and Photo: Press Christian Dior